https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZeZuakFNzvvch5Aop2cvK6_DWjzudn7R/view?usp=sharing
I’m a little slow getting updates due to being so busy, but i’ll be adding a few real soon for my weekly Freebie files. Enjoy
This is a easy Christmas tree bowl for gifts for Christmas. I used 2×12 material(i had it laying around, and it had pretty grain). I could have used about anything, but decided to use this. It was super stable and dry(been in my storage for abotu 5-6 years). Not sure what i bought it for.
I put these at angle to get cool grain of the wood at angle. I like to do stuff like that to add interest. If you do this, watch out and stay careful with feeds and speeds. when it crosses the grain, it likes to tear out.
I use blue painters tape and CA gel glue and accelerator from amazon.
about 20 dollars for both and i get at lot out of them. this is one of my favorite ways to hold down stuff. Warning, if you spoil board gets pretty rough, surface it or find another method.
Another tip, get a bit that has enough cutting length to it to reach all the wood. if the shank starts hitting the wood, you can get burning, bouncing, etc. lots of bad can happen, but does not always happen. just be warned. I do have long reach 1/4 inch bits that i use. if you want super clean bottom, get it close and change bits to a O flute bit and run the bottom with it. Should be no sanding if your bit is sharp.
long reach upcut(this one has .1 deg angle) to help release pressure and is coated.
https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14289-46577-k.html
Here is long reach o flute, long reach not needed, but i had it, and used it
https://www.toolstoday.com/v-14619-51513-k.html
I do own long reach compression bits but they are not 1/4 inch shank. I’m not sure if you find a compression bit with this long cutting length. You prob don’t have enough hp to push that beast along anyways. it would be a struggle with a 2.2 kW spindle.
The file. I’ve made this file with a pocket offset climb first, but if i do these again with my Onefinity, due to the extra speed, i’ll to a profile inside and outside cut first about .25 deep with downcut bit. This gives plenty of material to hold and would let me not worry about tear out as bad on the top edge.
The pocket operation uses an offset to cut with the same side of the bit. When doing raster, it switches from climb to conventional cut every pass. This is easier to keep the bit happy across the whole cut.
When done there will be small fuzz and marks to be cleaned up. Easiest way i’ve found is the Abrasive buffing polishing wheels from Amazon.
These can be run on end to get a flat surface cleaned up. Also wear safety glasses. These throw off bits of abrasive pretty fast. They do not last long. They do a great job getting the marks off and doing general cleanup.
If you don’t have a rotary tool, I use this one and it works great.
amazon 31.98
